One would think that it is common sense to not wear brand-new shoes in the rain, and of course, I won’t lie and say that I have never done it. But after doing it, and seeing the consequences of what can happen, I have learned from my errors and hope to share those here so that you do not make the same mistakes that I and countless others have.
I won’t claim to be a scientist on why skin/leather reacts in certain ways at certain times. But having had such vast experiences in my use of shoes and handling of nearly every brand under the sun, I can give you a very strong precaution that is not based on 100% fact, as there are always exceptions (like black calf), but will be based on enough merit to potentially save you from blunders that could have been prevented.
All leathers are different. All leathers react differently. Cheap leathers especially. Light colors are even more so volatile. But just because those are generally regarded as volatile, does not mean that one should be careless with their more expensive, darker leathers. The reason is that not all rain is also the same. Different regions have rain with more salinity in it. I have had downpours turn my shoes black and then dry evenly. I have had one tiny spec of rain hit my shoe and leave a rain stain. Go figure, right?!
The reason is that when leather is new, and those pores have not opened, it is more susceptible to surface issues. Now I do not know why that is on a scientific level, but I have dealt with it countless times in my life as a professional shoe shiner and also as someone who has owned more than 1000 shoes in his lifetime by hundreds of makers, from cheap ones to the top of the spectrum. I have had shoes of the same leather take rain after the second wear and were fine. But a different pair, in the same leather, worn for the first time on a rainy day and blistered up.
Therefore, while of course, you can do what you want and wear your new shoes in the rain if you so please. You can polish your brand new shoes, thinking that it will protect them from rain, and take your own risk but it does not guarantee that you will actually be protecting your shoes. The best protection is prevention. The smartest thing you can do is wear your brand-new shoes on a day when it is not scheduled to rain. You can then safely break that leather in, open those pores up, and then give them a good shine. After this, you can feel more confident to face the rain.
I write this post with one agenda: to help you and nothing more. I will make all of the mistakes so you do not have to. I write based on my experience of dealing with things firsthand. Not in theories.
The simple fact is that no matter what others tell you, leather when new has its pores closed and is more susceptible to adverse reactions. The leather and its pores open as you move the leather i.e. as you wear the shoes. The more you wear the shoes, the more the pores open and accept rain with a more positive reaction.
I can also say that if you wear brand new shoes on a rainy day and soak them, the leather will drastically loosen due to that, as opposed to breaking in the leather on a dry day. I have chelsea boots that have stretched drastically because I soaked them on the first day’s wear. I have others that still fit tight as a glove, as I broke them in on a dry day and have subsequently worn them on wet days afterward but as the leather was already broken in, it did not have the same effect as the overly stretched chelseas. Again, go figure.
Lastly, this is not 100% a fact. There are always exceptions as I stated above. Some shoes will take the rain like a champ on the first day. But many others won’t. I write this as a general rule of thumb that will prevent you from potential future headaches. Always break your shoes in on a dry day. Avoid potential problems, if you can. You just might thank me later 🙂
—Justin FitzPatrick, The Shoe Snob
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Thank you. You are the master of shoes!
Thank you Robin
Any suggestions with cordovan and suede in wet weather. I’ve heard not to wear either in the rain. I’ve also heard that cordovan is better in rain and I’ve heard suede, once brushed, sprayed with a non-silicone water protector, dried, and then brushed again, is more water resistant than calf.
Hey Eugene, to be honest I cannot claim to be an expert in Cordovan but for suede read the following https://theshoesnobblog.com/2019/10/rainy-day-wear-suede.html
Thank you. All I can say is wow.
My pleasure
Thank you. As I live in Scotland with three times the rainfall of London, I’ll make a note to wear my new Cheaney shoes for the first time in April 🙂
Being in a place where you might not have the luxury of following this advice you probably have already given into the fact that the rain could potentially stain your shoes and simply get on with life
True. Before I started working from home many years ago, I used to walk an average of about 3 miles a day on my commute and out and about at lunchtime. Predominantly with leather soled shoes.
In autumn/winter a leather soled shoe used to last between 30 to 40 days wear (not consecutive days of course) before the sole was worn through, just due to it being constantly worn in the wet. In the drier months you could double that
I was a familiar face at the shoe repair shop.
Thanks for sharing Ian!
Nice Article, I remember long time back I wear brand new leather shoes and suddenly it started raining whole shoes was soaked wet, however I place it in our heater room to get dry and then use brown polish to make it look brand new again 🙂
Thank you its actually better when the whole shoe soaks as it gets wet evenly and dries evenly.
I buy high quality shoes so the leather is excellent. Cheaney, Church’s, Crockett and Jones. Living in England where it rains (most of the time). I always polish my shoes before wearing them and have never suffered stains that you mention. If the leather is high quality, it will take the creme and polish first time. If it is inferior leather, it simply will not absorb the oils and fats.
Thank you, Justin. Mark in Atlanta here. I read and reread your blog and save east post for reference. appreciate the information and education. Stay well, my friend. By the way, those Palachios are breaking in well. Slowly (big rotation), but well.
Thank you Mark, I do appreciate it my friend! Glad that you are enjoying your JF shoes 😉
Hi…Great information as I have bought a new pair of stunners…But in uk is -4 and started to to rain, So sadly my stunners will be in the house today resting !!!…Better safe than sorry!!!…Thanks ..Barry
Thank you for sharing Barry!
Hi Justin, I’ll thank you now & always! Cheers!
—Brian
Thanks Brian!
Thumbs up, Justin!!
Thanks JM!