A while back I had a customer of my brand ask me to compare my brand’s chelsea boots to RM William’s chelsea boots. He asked what separates the two as they are both relative in price and both offer a whole cut pattern? I had to really think about this as RM Williams makes a great boot for sure. It made me ponder deeply into my previous train of thought when I used to actually dislike chelsea boots (imagine that!). That was around the time that I was handling a lot of RM William’s ones as I was shining shoes at Gieves & Hawkes and many customers brought those in. All I saw at the time was what I felt looked like overly-rugged boots. I didn’t like that. But times have changed in the last 13 years.
I started to ask myself as well, ‘What really separates us?’ Because in terms of quality or construction, there is not much to say either way. Both are well-made, welted, wholecut chelsea boots. And both are around $600 or so. Sure, there are refined details that make a difference but that in reality doesn’t make up the story of ‘the overall comparison’.
So what finally hit me on the head was the idea of the chelsea boot itself and how it is perceived in the minds of the wearer. Is it a smart boot? Or a rugged, casual boot? That’s the actual question and what often separates a client’s likes over one brand or the next. A client that likes rugged will never buy my ‘smart’ chelsea boots and most like vice-versa.
It made me realize that I never liked chelsea boots prior to seeing one on the DG70 last by Gaziano & Girling. At the time (think about 12 years ago), I never really found one that suited my aesthetic criteria for elegance. Back then you often only found the extreme styles of cheslea boots (at least in the UK): a Jeffrey West type that was overly elongated and looked like you were wearing skis; or the rugged RM Williams type that could not be worn elegantly (they have come a long way since this time).
Neither of the aforementioned styles appealed to me. It was very rare to find one that was narrow in the waist, elegantly cut without being overly elongated (outside of handgrade brands that cost more than $1500). After being inspired by the Gaziano & Girling Burnham, I realized once making my own chelsea boot that this was the only way I liked them. The rugged ones don’t appeal to me at all (will later expand on this). Mainly because, quite frankly, I am not rugged by any means. And I like to dress in fitted clothing which contradicts that rugged look.
So after a lot of thought, I explained just that. Quality aside, these two boots are made with different ideas on how to execute their look. My boot (by J.FitzPatrick), like G&G, is a dressy chelsea boot. That’s not to say that you can’t wear it with jeans. But it is sleek. It’s meant to be elegant, not rugged per se. It’s meant to be able to transition from smart to casual all in a day’s wear.
It’s hard-wearing but not meant to be worn overly hard. RM Williams’ classic boot is Rugged. It’s hard-wearing and meant to be worn hard. You can wear it in the desert. It is supposed to get beat up. Polishing it is just an option. Maybe their customer prefers it more beat up looking? So that was my answer, leaving it for him to decide. In the end, he wanted a rugged boot and chose the RM Williams one. Which is fine.
Since originally writing this post in 2019, I have actually added a rugged version to my collection as you see in one of those photos. But, although rugged in leather choice and sole option it is still a sleek version of a rugged boot as I will never produce something that looks clunky and cannot be worn elegantly. It simply isn’t my style.
That being, how do you like your chelsea boots? Elegant or Rugged?
—Justin FitzPatrick, The Shoe Snob
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That is a most interesting article. You might even go more into details and my fascination would never cease. For example, which model is more difficult in which respect for the shoemaker to manufacture and why.
R.M. Has certainly gone a far way since its rugged days. The lasts, although still wide by modern standards, are far more narrower and elegant than they used to be. Compare mine to my dad’s who had has for 10+ years and it is far more obvious.
The modern ones, the ones that cost $495, when polished and cared for are no less elegant than any European/British boot. Having said that, because of its roots, they tend to be worn by those who have a disdain for their foot-ware. Having said that Aussies also wear their RMs with their suits in winter. Its just a case of if they wear them as good as us who care for shoes.
JFP Chelsea boots are not elegant… They are the MOST elegant ones in the world! I say.
The Alki is definitely on my shopping list, maybe with some sort of medallion.
I prefer the dressier style, like yours and the G&G, John Lobb, etc. I also think they go with more casual attire, including jeans. They also seem a bit retro in a good way. 1960’s Steve McQueen, wearing a nice turtleneck, trim jacket/blazer, and moderately trim slacks. I would never wear them with a business suit.
I have always noticed the elegance in your shoes, and there is something I have never understood.
Back in 2000 when you needed to know something about shoes plus how to procure them, I imported a pair of Crockett and Jones Coniston boots from the UK. Why I bought this boot? It was the best looking (sleak compared to hiking boots or blue collar work boots) boot I could find to walk a couple miles in a Chicago winter that could take the beating and look halfway decent with wool trousers and a nice jacket.
Alright I’m past the verbose self absorbed shopping story, and onto my question. Your lifestyle, living in the world’s major cosmopolitan cities, requires much walking. So how do your elegant shoes hold up daily walking in London and New York?
Well, I can say that my JFP Oxfords do their job and keeps me comfortable and elegant. I walk from my home to my office everyday… around 40 minutes. And I get a lot of attention! My feet really…
I do approve Sean’s comment !
It’s a quick an easy way to say that all RM Williams boots are rugged nowadays (the shape is quite nervous with square chiseled toe). it’s a pity i cannot join a picture to my comment because i do not wear my RM williams boots in casual and inelegant wearings.
by the way i get also a Carmina wholecut chelsea pair of boots in costidix shape, and those are really really sleek and elegant at a price, when black friday or promo, for instance, that is not so far of yours and you can choose the leather, the medaillion and the color of the rubber band on JR sole.
just to correct one point in my previous comment about Carmina’s wholecut chelsea boots price :
– i bought them two years ago and price seem to have increased
– i am europeen and i paid them in euro and i remembered it was around 500 euros (not dollars) so those boots were in fact more expansive than the fitzpatrickone (but it is my point of view the design and construction are one level higher)
Like you, I never much cared for Chelsea boots either, although I could not quite articulate why not. I always felt that the large swath of elastic detracted from the elegance of the boot. That is, until I saw yours. I’ve only had them a few days, but I’m loving them so far! Thanks for sharing your wisdom.
Thanks for sharing Peter! And I am so happy to hear that, truly!
how about chelsea vs side zip?
You’re buying two different images when you buy these types of boots: City slicker vs jackeroo
RM Williams are still hand made in Adelaide and come from a tradition of creating smart outback wear. Australia is the driest contient on earth, our farmers go through the most austere of conditions: bushfires to floods, we need clothes that can match the environment so they need to be durable, practical and comfortable.
You will see RMs worn at horse riding competitions through to boardrooms in Australia. We are a relaxed unpretentious culture and the RM fits that mould.
Chelsea boots from G&G or Berluti are more delicate and refined, they’re sleek, stylish and softer. They’re not hard wearing work horses that can last day in and day out but at least fabulous.
Each company is selling a different image, you just need to choose the image you want.
Worth noting the harrold boot company. They have a longer history of making boots and are still primarily a boot manufacturer, not a fashion brand. They are also half the price of r.m’s. Also worth noting that they manufacture their boots with brass screw construction. So they are a lot tougher.
Thank you for sharing