A shoe’s shape is the single most important factor in its beauty. The greatest shoe brands often have the best last makers behind them as the proportion of the last is what creates elegance. That and the ability to draw the pattern around it. Yet we often take the shape for granted and focus more on ‘design’ (in the world of ‘fashion’), finishing, price, and the like. But at the end of the day and poorly shaped shoe is nothing more than an ugly shoe. No matter how well-made it is.
A Shoe’s Shape – 3 Key Factors to Look For
Keeping It Balanced
Now, of course, the idea of shape and its perceived beauty will be different for all. Some people cannot stand an elongated shoe and want something that is so bluntly round that it verges on the look of a pancake. Others on the opposite end of the spectrum want shoes so pointy you can kick a cockroach in the corner. For me, the idea of beauty will always lie in the balance of the proportions and accentuating them to the style of the upper. So, in reality, shape and design often go hand in hand.
Knowing What Shapes Complement Which Designs
Ever think about how certain models look better on certain shaped toes? For me, a loafer is always best put on a rounded last. That doesn’t mean I do not like a chisel loafer but I feel its design is better suited to a round shape. The same goes for a full brogue oxford. But, on the flip side, a chisel last suits a classic double monk often better than a round last does. Understanding these things is one of the skills of the designer and ultimately making beautiful shoes.
Body Types & A Shoe’s Shape That Complements
We were born the way we were born and sometimes certain shapes look better on our feet than they do to our eye. And vice versa. For example, I love a nice chisel last, but often do not like how it suits my soccer player frame with a longer torso and shorter legs. They often make me look unbalanced. So I often stick to a rounded last. Chisel lasts often look great on taller, lean gents. Knowing which shapes suit your body type is also important.
Start to pay attention to the lasts. The subtle differences in length on a chisel last are key to its beauty. Too much length and you destroy the look. Too little, and it becomes very unproportionate. A shoe’s shape is the detail you want to start looking for more thoroughly. A shoe’s shape (the last) must be proportionate to be elegant. Everything else is simply not attractive.
—Justin FitzPatrick, The Shoe Snob
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Jesus! Those Anthony Delos shoes are something special! Thank you for making me aware of the brand! Also, is there any intention of putting together an in-person going away gathering(salen) at your brick and mortar store?
Yea, he was/is among one of the best makers of all time. He no longer has his own business. He was bought out by Berluti and works for them now