The Black Wholecut: The Only Dress Shoe Ever Really Needed

If one had to pick just one dress shoe to own for the rest of their life to go with as many possible outfits and occasions, it would definitely be The Black Wholecut. The idea and title of this post might sound like shoe lover blasphemy, and believe me I can’t say that I would ever think of just having one, but if life presented itself with this situation, it’s best to be equipped with what is going to get you through it all.

What made me think of this was a discussion that was occurring on Style Forum (a while back) in regard to one’s absolute shoe essentials. One gentleman stated that instead of having multiple essentials, he would have preferred to have just one shoe that could get him through each and every situation. Now, he did not mention the black wholecut, and this is where he and I will differ but I got to thinking about people out there who may only be able to afford to get just one or simply can’t justify having multiple options.

Thinking about society, i.e. ‘the rules’ and ‘norms’, and all of the different possible outfits one would need in life, I decided to create my own little idea of what would be the best option out there for all-around purposes. And because I once learned in a philosophy class at university that every statement needs to be argued against and then re-argued for, I will list my do’s and don’ts below for why I believe the black wholecut is the only shoe you would need if you could only own just one.

What You Shouldn’t Wear Black Wholecuts With

In all of the shoe-dom, there is not one shoe style that simply goes with everything, not even the versatile brown full brogue (shouldn’t pair it with black, for example). And while you might think that a black shoe can go with most things, let me tell you that the wholecut is just not any ‘ol black shoe. It’s in another category due to its nearly stitch-free clean look. Therefore, some types of trousers just won’t measure up to the aesthetic of the black wholecut. For example, jeans are one of them.

While I am a total jean/denim guy and do like to wear my leather-soled shoes with jeans, I don’t think that I would ever pair a black wholecut with them. It’s just too contrasting: an elegantly cut dress shoe with a real casual trouser style. It just doesn’t match up. But this is really the only common type of pants/trousers that doesn’t sit right with this oxford. Even chinos, ideally with a crease, could pass in a pinch! But jeans and black wholecuts = no-no.

Similarly, cargo anything or those nylon style faux dress trousers with sweatpant waistbands are also ideally avoided for black wholecuts. And don’t get me wrong, I wear cargo chinos, but not with dress styles. I wear them with suede shoes and boots, mainly.

What Should You Wear Them With

The reality of the argument is that we are talking about ‘dress shoes.’ And what does that mean? That means, that they are shoes meant to be worn for occasions of ‘dress’ i.e. wearing suits, dressed elegantly. The argument here is not what is the ‘most versatile shoe’, it is the ‘most important dress shoe to have if you could only have one’. And that is where a black wholecut beats the rest for the simple fact that if you had to go to formal events and occasions, it is the only dress shoe that would measure up and fit into that equation.

At the same time, a black wholecut is acceptable and can also be worn for regular suit wearing. While ‘more formal’ as a shoe model, it does not take away its function as a common dress shoe that can be worn in any other business-like setting. And provided you iron your clothes and look smart, could also be worn with a smart-casual style as well — think creased chinos, an oxford shirt, and a blazer, etc.

You don’t need a tie to wear black wholecuts either. As long as you are smart-looking, have dress trousers, a nice jacket, and a button-up shirt, you are good to go!

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The simple truth is that the black wholecut will stand the test of time and will always fit into any occasion that requires dress/formal well and for that reason, should you only have one pair of ‘dress shoes’ let it be a black wholecut.

—Justin FitzPatrick, The Shoe Snob

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